2010 Harlan Estate
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2023 - 2045
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2018 - 2037
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I was thrilled to moderate this charity tasting at the Naples Winter Wine Festival this past January. For the occasion, Harlan presented ten vintages of their flagship wine going back to 1992, which also happens to be the first vintage of Harlan Estate I tasted on release. Needless to say, it was fascinating to taste a cross-section of vintages ranging from the estate’s early days to the present, including a number of modern-day reference-points.
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2018 - 2035
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Harlan Estate was one of the highlights of my recent trip to Napa Valley. The new and upcoming releases are simply stunning. The 2010s are even better than they were from barrel. There is a level of inner tension and vibrancy in the 2010s that elevates them into stratosphere. The 2011s are among the best wines of that challenging harvest. My sense is that today the wines are made in a slightly more restrained style than in previous years. Let's be clear, the best wines of the 1990s are still superb, as recent bottles of the 1992 and 1994 prove. Still, I find more energy than in the past. I am not sure if that is attributable to changes in picking dates, older vines, less irrigation or gentler handling in the cellar, but I suspect it is the result of those and other factors. No matter, Bill Harlan's 2010s are superb and the 2011s aren't that far behind. This is a great showing from the entire Harlan team, but the winemaking team headed by Bill Levy and Cory Empting in particular.
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"Vintages 2011 and 2010 shared virtually the same heat accumulation signature," noted winemaker Cory Empting, "but produced totally different styles of wine.Crop levels in both vintages were reduced by flatter during flowering."As preliminary blends had been made for the 2011s, I was able to get an early look at both the Harlan and Bond wines from this tricky vintage, and they look to be among the highlights of the year.The pHs in 2011 are actually a bit higher than those of the 2010s, according to Empting.But the remarkably fine-grained tannins shown by the 2010s put them in another class--at least in the early going.
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