2009 Harlan Estate
United States
Oakville
Napa
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon (2022 vintage)
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2020 - 2040
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2019 - 2034
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I was thrilled to moderate this charity tasting at the Naples Winter Wine Festival this past January. For the occasion, Harlan presented ten vintages of their flagship wine going back to 1992, which also happens to be the first vintage of Harlan Estate I tasted on release. Needless to say, it was fascinating to taste a cross-section of vintages ranging from the estate’s early days to the present, including a number of modern-day reference-points.
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Even at 95 points, I may have underrated the 2008 Harlan Estate flagship wine last year. On my most recent visit, this densely packed, youthfully imploded wine expanded spectacularly with a bit of aeration, showing an element of energy that's usually missing in Napa Valley cabernet of this scale (I scored it 96). And it manages to avoid the exotic sweetness shown by so many 2008 cabernets. The winery's 2009, with higher-pitched aromatics and more minerality, shows suaver tannins and more refinement, and is even more complete. Winemaker Cory Empting compared the young 2009s (and he was speaking of Bill Harlan's Bond wines as well) as "like the 2005s but with more flavor maturity."
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2016 - 2029
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Vintages 2008 and 2009 are totally different in character at Harlan Estate. In 2008 the two wines are also quite different stylistically, while in 2009 the wines are much more closely linked. The 2010s I tasted from barrel were all raciness and pure excitement. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Bill Harlan in which Harlan discusses Promontory, his newest project.
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