2004 Harlan Estate
United States
Oakville
Napa
Red
88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc
00
2015 - 2030
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Winemaker Bob Levy describes 2005 as a cooler, longer growing season that produced bigger yields. Because he was afraid of making wines that lacked concentration, he did a lot of saignee. "This was possible because we had outstanding quality of tannins," he explained, "and the saignee did not throw the wines off balance. In 2005, we were lucky to have had tannin maturity before sugar maturity." My early tasting of the Harlan Estate 2005, as well as of the Bond wines made by the same team of Bill Harlan, Levy and enologist Michel Rolland, suggests that this vintage will offer a rare combination of density and verve. A word of advice for long-time Harlan Estate collectors: Levy noted that these wines virtually always go through a sullen stage six to eight years after the vintage and recommends drinking them before or after this awkward period.
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My March visit to Harlan Estate, where I also see the ever-expanding line-up of Bond wines-which come from the same team of Bill Harlan, winemaker Bob Levy and enologist Michel Rolland-is consistently one of the highlights of my tasting year. On my latest visit, Levy compared the Harlan Estate 2001 to the 1994 ("classic") and the 2002 to the 1995 ("fleshier, more forward"). The 2002 is indeed a monumental wine, and the new 2004 looks to be in a similar style.
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