2009 Corton-Renardes Grand Cru
France
Corton Renardes
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2014 - 2029
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2019 - 2029
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This was my first opportunity to taste the 2009s from Domaine Leroy in bottle. Lalou Bize-Leroy was among the first, if not the first, to bottle her 2009s, so she naturally wanted to give the wines some time to recover before showing them. The wines are stunning. Readers who have an opportunity to taste them should not hesitate. As always, the style is one of textural richness and depth, but the2009s appear to have excellent underlying material as well. The attention to every detail at the Domaine is quite evident in these thrilling wines. My visit ended with a sample of the 2010 Chambertin from barrel. Why not go straight to the top? If that wine is representative of the year, Leroy fans will have another superb vintage to look forward to, although yields will be lower than the already minuscule production.
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"It's not the vintage of the century," said Thibault Liger-Belair about 2009. "There will be a lot of wines to drink young. The challenge was to have freshness, and it's not just a question of acidity. We also had a range of phenolic maturity and some wines are too fat. But since the end of the summer, they're showing more tension and length." Liger-Belair was one of several winemakers I visited in November who described 2009 as a rather fragile vintage, even if his top cuvees appear to offer considerable aging potential. Incidentally, his favorite vintage of the recent past is 2006, "for its vivacity and energy, and for its definition of terroir. "The 2008s are in the same style but have a bit less flesh than the '06s," he noted. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)
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