2008 Gevrey Chambertin Bel-Air
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2018 - 2028
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Philippe Pacalet is among the winemakers who compare 2009 to 1959. Pacalet works exclusively with leased vineyards across a number of appellations. Biodynamic farming and non-interventionalist winemaking are the rule. The village level wines were all bottled in December, 2010. I tasted the rest of The 2009s from barrel. I also had a chance to sample a selection of 2008s. Based on the wines I tasted, 2008 looks like a very interesting vintage here as well.
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As negociant Pacalet does not use a sorting table, he left virtually 30% of his fruit on the vines, including a lot of pink grapes. Pacalet told me he has made wine since he was 21 years old (he's now 45) and has never destemmed. Vinifying with all whole clusters, he said, is "like a biological de-acidification." But of course careful triage was critical in a year like 2008, which featured a wide range of maturity. The fruit came in with potential alcohol from the low 12s up to about 13%, but Pacalet rarely chaptalizes more than a small amount, "just to prolong the fermentations." He also uses very little new oak: he bought only 10 new barrels for the cellar in 2008. Pacalet likens 2008 to 2001, but pointed out that there was more harvest-time rain in 2001 and riper grapes in 2008. Incidentally, thanks to "la crise economique," Pacalet was able to buy a bit of Echezeaux and Chambertin-Clos de Beze in 2009. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86).
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