2009 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Chambolle Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2039
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It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier's 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines.
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in March 2012
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2019 - 2049
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My visit with Christophe Roumier was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy earlier in the year. The range of 2009s is simply extraordinary, and The 2008s aren't too far behind. Most of The 2009s were in tank, awaiting imminent bottling. Roumier began harvesting on September 12.
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Christophe Roumier described 2009 as an easy vintage that produced very smooth wines. There was some oidium and mildew in May and June but after mid-July the weather was warm and dry, and the harvest was easy, "with almost no grapes rejected." Still, he added, late harvesters tended to make jammy wines. His 2009s have slightly elevated pHs in the 3.6 to 3.65 range, but Roumier noted that his 2007s and 2006s were nearly as high. He vinified with more whole clusters than usual: 10% in the Chambolle villages, 25% in the Morey and Combottes, 33% in the Cras, 50% in the Charmes, Ruchottes and Amoureuses, 60% in the Bonnes-Mares, and the normal 100% for his tiny lot of Musigny. Roumier told me that 2009 is more like 1990 than 1989, as the berries were smaller than in '89. "The '90s may be more concentrated, but they show more flavors of overripeness than 2009," he explained. He also compared the new vintage with very ripe years like 2005 and 1999 but noted that the 2005s have much higher acidity. Following late malos (most of the secondary fermentations started in June and finished between July and September), Roumier had started racking the 2009s the week before my visit.
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