2010 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Chambolle Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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The only real problem with Christophe Roumier's 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue.
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Christophe Roumier compared his 2010s to his 2002s, adding that they're "a bit deeper and more generous, but with similar acidity and tannins. Or you could describe them as super-2008s." Crop levels were down between 30% and 35% from 2009 levels owing to the poor fruit set and considerable millerandage. He also lost some vines to the December '09 frost "and others didn't produce a crop." He harvested on the late side, beginning on September 28. Roumier did less whole-cluster fermentation than in 2009 despite telling me that the skins in 2010 were thick and healthy: about 10% for the Chambolle villages and up to 50% for the Bonnes-Mares, Amoureuses and Ruchottes-Chambertin. "The very ripe 2009s needed something green," he added, explaining why he made more use of the stems in the earlier vintage.
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