2003 Le Montrachet

The Amiots started harvesting in 2004 "as late as possible because it was difficult to get the grapes ripe," said Guy Amiot. They had done a lot of leaf-pulling to uncover the grapes so that the treatments against oidium would be effective, and they continued these treatments until September 1. The fruit then benefited from the September sunshine. High yields and sanitary conditions were the most important factors in 2004, said Amiot, who noted that oidium always risks giving mushroom aromas to the wines. Interestingly, Amiot compared 2004 to 1999 in that the two vintages showed similar differences in yields between young and old vines, but he noted that the '99s, as a group, were riper. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; also Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include Boston Wine Company, Boston, MA and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA) Also tasted: Chassagne-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet Macharelles, Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean*.

The Amiots, who started harvesting in 2003 on August 27, made an average of just 30 hectoliters per hectare of chardonnay (and 20 of pinot noir) due to hail, frost and drought conditions. Still, Guy Amiot pointed out that in the Morgeot/Clos St. Jean sector of Chassagne-Montrachet, the vines suffered more from the stress of frost and hail than from lack of water and blockage of maturity during the peak of summer. In the weeks leading up to the harvest, there was a considerable fall in the grapes' acidity, he added. Amiot was aging the 2003s in 40% to 50% new oak, up from his normal one-third. All the malolactic fermentations had finished and the wines had been sulfited two or three months prior to my visit. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley CA also Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include Boston Wine Company, Boston MA The Country Vintner, Oilville VA and Margaux Imports, Ft. Lauderdale, FL)