2008 La Romanée Grand Cru
France
La Romanée
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2023 - 2048
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The phrase ‘once-in-a-lifetime,’ so often overused, has never been more apt. This tasting, held to celebrate Liger-Belair’s 200th anniversary, was the most comprehensive retrospective of La Romanée ever staged. When all was said and done, a group of thirteen tasters surveyed an eye-popping 74 different bottlings of the family’s crown jewel La Romanée going back to the 1865.
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Louis-Michel Liger-Belair toured his vineyards on September 10 and came to the conclusion that the fruit had not yet achieved full phenolic ripeness, so he ended up harvesting between the 12th and 16th. As was noted by a number of his colleagues, Liger-Belair told me that the very hot period between August 10 and 25 killed a lot of the malic acidity in the grapes and concentrated sugars, but in some instances stalled the maturation of the tannins. In fact, according to the numbers, he added, acidity levels in a number of the wines are even lower than those of 2003. He noted that the yeasts in 2009 ate more sugar than normal, so finished alcohols are a bit lower than they might have been. Liger-Belair was careful with extraction in 2009, relying mostly on infusion: "The high alcohol was easy to extract. I didn't want to do anything that might accentuate any green seed quality in the grapes." The malos began early but did not finish until March and April owing to the long, cold winter. The '09s had not yet been racked at the time of my visit. As of 2009, all of the domain's vineyards are farmed organically. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA and Veritas, Beverly Hills, CA)
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Although the malolactic fermentations of the 2008s were later than usual here, they still ended by mid-June, said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. "Our cellars are not too cold because our house [the stately old Chateau de Vosne-Romanee] is directly above them," he explained. Liger-Belair carried out a pre-harvest to remove rotten and rose grapes, then picked fruit with grape sugars between 12% and 13.2% and had 30% less crop than normal. Liger-Belair compares his 2007s to a cross between 2001 and 2000 and says the 2008s have more precision and acidity. I found the first couple of samples a bit tart but at the cru level there are some stunning 2008s in the making. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA and Veritas, Beverly Hills, CA)
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