1998 Saint-Aubin Charmois
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Colin top 1999 cuvees boast good density and depth of flavor for the year, with ripe acidity giving them more elegance and grip than the '98s. "Rather like the '79s in style," I suggested. "But the '79s went through a bit of a dip between two and eight years after the bottling," he noted. "The '99s may always taste good, like the '92s." The malolactic fermentations were finished, but the wines had not yet been racked at the end of June. (Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA)
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Michel Colin was one of several vignerons in Chassagne-Montrachet who preferred '98 to '97. The wines, he says, show better gras and depth of fruit flavor than those of the previous year. Colin describes his '98s as riper than the '97s (in fact, he likened the '98s to his '92s), though he points out that grape sugars and acids were technically about the same in both '98 and '97. At the time of my visit, the malos were finished and the wines had been sulfited, but had not yet been racked. (Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA)
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