2012 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru
France
Chambertin Clos De Bèze
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2024 - 2042
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Although I was only able to taste a handful of bottled 2012s, the wines I saw confirmed my very positive impressions from last year. Bruno Clair's 2012s are rich, fat and textured, but with more than enough structure to support many years of fine drinking.
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Bruno Clair described his 2010s as austere but the 2012s as fatter and fleshier, and the richness of the new vintage is especially clear in the estate's top cuvees.The domain harvested from September 20 until October 2, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol levels between 12% and 12.5% and chaptalizing about a half degree.They used their vibrating sorting table to eliminate the grapes grilled by sun at the end of July.Winemaker Philippe Brun told me he did two pigeages per day at the beginning of the fermentation, relying mostly on remontages at that stage, then three or four punchdowns per day at the peak of fermentation.Most cuvees were vinified with about 20% whole clusters.The 2012s were racked before the harvest of 2013. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., www.martinscottwines.com; Fine Vines, www.finevines.com; Cordon Selections, www.cordonselections.com; The Source Imports, www.thesourceimports.com)
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2022 - 2042
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Bruno Clair and his longtime winemaker Philippe Brun do so many things well, as these 2012s amply show. Where to start with these wines? Well, the Marsannays are terrific, but frankly so are all the wines. The harvest started on September 20 and wrapped up on October 2. By comparison, the 2013 harvest started on October 3 and lasted until the 20th. Malos were quite late here, and the wines were only racked in early September. Over the last few years Clair has begun to age some of his wines partly or wholly in cask, where volumes allow for larger aging vessels. When all is said and done, Bruno Clair's wines have been among the most impressive for some time and are deserving of a much wider audience. I highly encourage readers to check them out.
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