2012 Chambertin Grand Cru
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2027 - 2052
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I had a sense when I visited Rousseau last year that I was catching the wines at an awkward stage. Based on the two finished 2012s I tasted, that appears to have indeed been the case. Such is the nature of the beast when it comes to tasting wines from barrel in Burgundy.
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2029 - 2047
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Eric Rousseau's top 2012s are stunningly complex and sappy wines, from a generally slightly lower crop level than in 2013. He describes the '12s as "fruitier, riper and denser" than the '13s but does not believe they are built for "huge aging, as they don't have the tannic structure of 1999 or 2005." I was very impressed by the top cuvées here.
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Eric Rousseau told me in November that for the time being he prefers 2011 to 2012, but that 2012 "shows the terroir more accurately.It will be best to hold these wines for seven or eight years, but I don't think 2012 will be a year for extended aging.The wines are more elegant than the 2010s."He picked from September 20 through 30 with no rot, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 12% and 13% and chaptalizing lightly.Rousseau destems all of his fruit but now adds back 10% of the stems for the vinification.The malos finished in February and June and the wines had been racked at the beginning of September but were still in barrel.
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2018 - 2030
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Eric Rousseau's 2012s come across as a bit subdued. I find the 2012s lacking the energy and the depth that is common in this vintage. But Pinot Noir is a finicky grape, and the wines were all racked just before the harvest, so I will not be surprised if the 2012s will be more impressive in a few months. Today, the 2012s are a bit uneven and not fully formed, with less of the thrill factor that usually accompanies a visit to this cellar. I found a number of 2011s from bottle more exciting than their 2012 counterparts. It will be interesting to see what paths these two very different vintages take over the coming years and decades.