2011 Chambertin Grand Cru
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2019 - 2035
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2021 - 2041
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
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This was one of the most splendid sets of 2011s I tasted in Burgundy, with even the first few wines in the range here showing concentrated fruit and sweet tannins.Eric Rousseau told me that despite terrible weather between mid-July and mid-August, the fruit reached good phenolic maturity and maintained solid acidity; he began harvesting on August 31.Potential alcohol levels ranged from 11.8% to as high as 13% for some of his young-vines parcels.In fact, he added, "the 2011s are robust wines with firmer tannins than the 2010s."(I should note that Rousseau's top cuvees in 2010 are some of the most spectacular young Burgundies I've ever tasted.)All of the wines had been racked in June or July, following the end of the malolactic fermentations in April and May.Rousseau emphasized that he practices the same vinification every year "to preserve the differences between the crus and between the vintages."
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