2008 Chambertin Grand Cru
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2018 - 2038
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I tasted the following wines with Frédéric Robert, who works alongside Eric Rousseau. In 2009 Rousseau and his team began picking on September 7, the earliest in Gevrey. For the first time the estate used 20% whole clusters on all the wines except for Clos de la Roche, which was closer to 15%. The 2009s were scheduled to be bottled in April 2011. I also tasted a handful of 2008s that were deeply impressive.
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Given the vicissitudes of the 2008 growing season and harvest, the purity and perfume of the new crop of wines here is nothing short of magical. "We try to be organic," Eric Rousseau told me, "but we had no choice but to use some chemicals in 2008 due to the outbreak of oidium in some of our grand crus, especially in Clos de la Roche." There was then a strict sorting of the fruit in the vines at harvest-time to eliminate rotten and pink grapes, as the estate does not own a sorting table. Fruit sugars were in the healthy 11.5% to 13% (Clos de Beze) range, and acids were high. In fact, said Rousseau, the numbers were similar to those of 1996, but yields were much higher in '96 (in 2008 they averaged only 30 hectoliters per hectare). Rousseau believes that there's a slight disequilibrium between the acids and tannins of the wines and their density of material. He expressed the opinion that the balance of the wines will be better in the early going and in the mid term than after long aging. At the same time, he told me that 2008 has more acidity and tannin than his 2006s, with similar purity. In fact, he also prefers 2007 to 2006 for its greater density.
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