1995 Chambertin Grand Cru
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2025 - 2050
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2017 - 2027
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
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In the past I have referred to the levage here as inflexible, and wondered whether Charles Rousseau practice of multiple rackings and rather late bottling (the better cuvees are generally bottled in two installments: the first part during the second June and July, the second part a couple months later). However, the uncommonly sociable Rousseau assured me on my most recent visit that he takes firm measures to keep the wines fresh, including the use of substantial carbonic gas and keeping the wine on its fine lees until the second racking. Rousseau generally favors vintages with strong acid and tannin structure: he believes that his '96s will be for drinking earlier than the '95s but will still prove to be vins de garde Thus, he adds, the wines will be difficult to judge in their youth. The grapes were quite firm at the time of the '96 harvest, Rousseau points out, and the skins were reasonably thick. They were also small enough to permit good concentration, Rousseau maintains. He picked relatively late, but his fruit still had strong acidity, and a lower pH than in the previous year.
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