2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Pure

Aficionados of the red cuvée Pure will be saddened to hear that Julien Barrot couldn’t produce the 2022 vintage. "Almost the entire vineyard was hit by severe hail on the 14th of August," he explained. However, relief comes from the magnificent 2021 vintage, a concentrated and polished rendition with spicy complexities. Beyond the devastating August hail, Barrot noted the small skin-to-juice ratio in the berries for the 2022s. This required extremely careful extraction to avoid producing overly tannic wines. Additionally, 2022 marked the earliest harvest in Barrot’s career, starting on the 24th of August. A highlight at this estate is the promising 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Fiancée, an equal blend of Grenache and Syrah, with the potential to rival the all-star 2016. To round things off, Barrot shared a simple Vin de France he bottles under the La Barroche label rather than Domaine La Barroche. While the 2021 didn't impress me, I thoroughly enjoyed the inviting and easy-going 2022.

Since we first met in 2008, Julien Barrot has remained one of the region’s most energetic winemakers. Within the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, his estate covers 15.5 hectares of vines, 2.1 of which are planted with white varieties. Barrot calls himself a maniac de trie, which means that he is meticulous when it comes to sorting. That being said, in contrast to other domains sitting equally high on the quality pyramid, Barrot does not believe in overly low yields. He concludes that the limit set by the AOC, 35hL/ha, is already quite low and perfect as it stands. For Barrot, the emphasis thus lies on absolute berry quality rather than harvesting fruit that may be overly concentrated. Here, the classic red Châteauneuf-du-Pape is named after its creator Julien Barrot. When comparing the 2021, 2020 and 2019 vintages, there was no discernible difference in quality; each vintage brought a unique style to the table. The 2019 stands out for its power and concentration, while the 2021 dazzles with delicacy and finesse. Positioned somewhere in between, 2020 offers a balanced profile combining elements of both the other vintages. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Pure is a thrilling white. A direct comparison between 2019, 2020 and 2021 vintages showed that these wines aren’t just hauntingly fragrant and complex but also display great poise and tension. The only two caveats are the minuscule quantities and lofty prices. Barrot recommends decanting all of his wines to enhance their aromas and flavors.