2007 Chambolle-Musigny Village

"I'm not convinced that our terroirs need so much phenolic ripeness," said enologist Francois Millet, noting that 2008 brought normal skin ripeness and "true maturity." Potential alcohols were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range and no chaptalization was done, according to Millet. As ambient temperatures were cool at the time of the harvest, the fermentations took a full week to start and then proceeded slowly. "This gave enough roundness to the wines to balance their freshness," said Millet. "Although the vintage is high in acidity and low in pH you don't really feel the acidity. There's a syrup fruit character in 2008, and it's difficult to get fruit character that's sweeter than syrup." In comparison, he added, the fruit in 2007 is more candied, and the wines from the earlier vintage are "direct, but also refined." The 2008s show the "flowers of afternoon," which are much sweeter, while the 2007s display the flowers of morning, adds Millet. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)

"The 2007s are in a very fresh style," said enologist Francois Millet. "We always have cherry and raspberry fruit but in 2007 there's also a citrus note. The wines are candied and candid-very direct." The domain produced just 20 to 25 hectoliters depending on the site, as there was more elimination of rotten grapes in 2007 than in 2006. But Millet was confident about the quality of the sorting practiced here. "In 2007 we had more juice in the grapes than in 2006, but riper skins as well. If 2007 is confiserie, then 2006 is jellied fruits-very stylish and with a deeply seductive character." The 2007s had been racked in June and July following the malos and were in the process of being racked for the second time in early November. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)