1996 Beaune Marconnets 1er Cru
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At this remarkably consistent domain, Madame Choppin '97s showed impressively well in January. These very rich wines, in many instances from fruit with potential alcohol above 13.5% (one cuvee came in at 14.6%, says Madame Choppin), were aged in a relatively high 60% new oak but, as usual, clearly express the differences between the domain several Beaune premier crus. The more backward '96s were tougher to taste, particularly in this frigid cellar, but clearly possess the flavor intensity and structure to be one of the longest lived vintages made here in many years. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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In this deep, frigid cellar, a number of '96s had not yet completed their malos, and the wines were not yet assembled (I tasted from mostly new barrels that were through the secondary fermentation). Madame Choppin describes her '96s as more perfumed than the '95s; yields here were moderate in '96, and grape sugars were in the healthy 12% range in '96 as well as '95. She was still amazed by the 1997 vintage, in which many of her parcels yielded fruit with potential alcohol in the 13.5%-14.3% range. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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