2009 Barbaresco Rabajà
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Sales and marketing manager Gabriele Occhetti, who is Giuseppe Cortese's son-in-law, told me he loves the 2008 Barbarescos for their intense aromas and firm acidity. He describes the family's 2011s as "opulent and ageworthy, with a higher quantity of tannins than the 2009s," adding that they will offer a riserva from this vintage after skipping 2010 and 2009. The 2010s, he added, display "high elegance" but are greener than the 2011s. The Corteses own four prime hectares of Rabaja, one of Barbaresco's top crus, including some vines around 60 years of age, which go into the reserve bottling.
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2017 - 2029
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Piercarlo Cortese describes 2009 as a very consistent year. The 2009 harvest started at the end of September, slightly ahead of normal, and finished on October 15. The Cortese Barbareschi undergo malolactic fermentation in steel and are aged exclusively in cask. Cortese has recently expanded their holdings with a new lease in Rabaja, which will bump production up slightly in coming years.
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Pierre Carlo Cortese, who took over winemaking at the family domain in 1991 after finishing school, is a big fan of the 2008 vintage, which he believes brought "perfect ripeness." He places this vintage in the sequence of top years following 2006, 2004, 2001, 1999 and 1996, which he describes as "other classical years for structure and definition." Cortese benefits from owning a big parcel of the superb Rabaja cru, from which he also makes about 5,000 bottles of a riserva in the best years. Interestingly, when I visited him this year on September 13, he was not planning to harvest his Rabaja for another two weeks, which would have been late by Barbaresco standards. Cortese describes 2009 as between 2007 and 2008 in style. The 2007s, he added, "have big maturation, big alcohol" compared to the more classic 2008s.
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