2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Da Capo

Sitting down with Laurence Féraud is always a pleasure, especially when stellar wines are involved, as was the case during this visit. But first, a bit of news: In 2021, Féraud purchased Domaine Porte Rouge, a small four-hectare winery nestled in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Féraud’s daughter, Justine Féraud, now oversees the viticulture and winemaking at Domaine Porte, focusing on a low-intervention approach. I had the chance to taste a few barrel samples from this new project—some promising, others less so. Back at Pegau, things started off strong with good to very good 2023 whites and reds. Both the Blanc Cuvée A Tempo and the red Cuvée Réservée show well at this early stage, but the Pegau magic truly came alive when the older vintages began to flow. The elegant 1988 Cuvée Réservée still shines brightly, and the super rare, ravishingly beautiful 1997 Cuvée Justine rendered me speechless. The thrilling 2010 Cuvée Da Capo and the intensely powerful 2010 Cuvée Inspiration left no doubt that Domaine du Pegau belongs at the very top of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape hierarchy.

Two thousand and eleven "will be a very attractive vintage for drinking early, because of the intense fruit" according to Laurence Feraud, who adds that "there is also an elegant character that wasn't there in recent vintages, which have all been more sauvage, more animal."Feraud compares 2011 to 2009 "because of the fruit expression, but less wild and more elegant."As a consequence of the naturally high yields of the vintage, which were unavoidable without a severe selection, she thinks that "there isn't the concentration, the density" in the wines to suggest long-term cellaring, "but there is balance and freshness so that's the trade-off."She thinks that 2010 can stand alongside the greatest vintages at her family's estate and compares the wines to her 2005s, but with "a greater degree of finesse and less overt tannins."

Laurence Feraud told me that, for her, 2010 is about dark fruit but with vivacity and spiciness. At the moment, she considers her young 2010s to be "a bit of a hybrid of 2008 for its spice, and 2009 and a bit of 2007 for their power." Conditions were so ideal in 2010 that the Ferauds were able to spread the picking out across an entire month, winding up with a wide range of lots with different personalities. "This made making a Cuvee da Capo a no-brainer," said Laurence, "as it will take nothing away from the quality and personality of the Reservee." Feraud added that the 2010 Capo clocks in at under two grams per liter of residual sugar, by the way. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; J et R Selections, Bloomfield Hills, MI)