2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Da Capo

Paul Feraud appears to know each foudre and tank in his sprawling cellar by name.He is also quite willing to offer candid assessments of his wines and to explain the nuances and personalities of each component.The 2003 vintage here is a big success but Feraud clearly struggled with this difficult year."The vintage has an execrable character," was the way he described it to me."It changes from day to day."The estate's 2003 reds were not yet bottled in November and the flagship Cuvee Reservee is scheduled for release in early 2006.In contrast, 2004 was a much easier year in which "the fruit was harvested under exceptional conditions and the wine was a pleasure to make."Feraud told me he wishes his wines were drunk with more bottle age than seems to be the current trend since "you really need to wait at least ten years to get the real aromas of Chateauneuf."(Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)