2005 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè

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2024 - 2044

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The room is buzzing with energy as our Crichët Pajé is about to kick off. It’s one of the things I love most about our events: the enthusiasm, passion and deep knowledge guests bring to these lunches and dinners. The 60th floor at Manhatta is especially evocative on this morning. A thick blanket of fog weaves throughout the New York City skyline as if we had arranged for the most perfect Barbaresco meets New York views imaginable. We aren’t that good.

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2016 - 2035

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Roagna was going through a period of generational transition when the 2005s and 2004s were made. Fermentations are quite long and the wines are still very classic in style, but in general the wines spent more time in oak a decade ago than they do today. As a result, readers opening the 2005s and 2004s should expect wines that show more of the aromatic, ethereal side of Nebbiolo where the fruit is present, but in the background with decidedly old-school tannins. All of these wines are delicious. The Roagna wines always benefit from aeration.

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2016 - 2025

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Luca Roagna has done a fabulous job with his 2009 Barbarescos. Roagna is among the last producers to bottle, so these are the current releases. I don't see the 2009s as long-term agers, especially by this house's standards, but they sure are beautiful today. Now that Roagna has moved into his new, cavernous digs in Castiglione Falletto he has the freedom and ability to make different choices than in the past. One of the big changes here is that the wines are going to be spending less time in oak. As the estate's fans know, at times these wines could be a bit advanced upon release. Roagna is taking steps to keep as much freshness in his wines as possible, which is a huge plus. Readers can look forward to a new Barbaresco from Faset with the 2013 vintage, while Albesani and Gallina are scheduled to enter the range with 2014. It's great to see a producer with so much raw ambition.

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