2010 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Pillot believes that the 2011 whites will age well, "but not like the 2010s. They're more like 2008 than 2007 but are a bit lower in acidity than the '08s." Pillot harvested during the first seven days of September, pointing out that ambient temperatures were very hot for the first three days (with afternoon temperatures well up into the mid-80s). He told me that he picked most of his premier crus with 12.5% to 13% potential alcohol, and the Clos Saint-Marc with 13.5%! The 2011s, he says, are carrying about 1.5 to 2.0 grams per liter of residual sugar, explaining that "the high-acid years like 2010 always finish drier." Pillot de-leafs in June on the morning side of the vines and beginning in 2011 pulled leaves on the other side just five days before starting to harvest. He credits this additional pass through the vines for helping him avoid rot in 2011. Don't miss this producer's outstanding 2010s.

Jean-Marc Pillot picked very early in 2009 and on the early side again in 2010, beginning in the latter year on September 19 and bringing in his premier crus with potential alcohol in the 13.2% to 13.3% range. The yeasts were very active, he added, with the result that the 2010s finished quite dry: in most cases, under one gram per liter of residual sugar. But there is nonetheless an attractive sucrosite to a number of these wines.