2017 Les Forts de Latour
France
Pauillac
Bordeaux
Red
65.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 0.8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
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2023 - 2040
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2025 - 2042
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2023 - 2055
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2020 - 2040
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Although the recalcitrant Château Latour no longer release their wine to négociants with the other First Growths, they continue to show barrel samples during the spring alongside their latest library release that I reviewed recently on Vinous in Cellar Favorites. It has been a busy year for owner François Pinault, adding Clos de Tart to his collection that now includes Château Grillet, Araujo and Domaine d’Eugenie. I met with Frédéric Engerer at the property. “It was a bit of a hectic year,” he explained. “There was no hydric stress, with only a tiny bit of frost damage up towards Mouton Rothschild. There was 70mm of rain in the first two weeks of September. The season reminded me of the 1999 or 2001, though not in terms of the style of the wine, which is between 2012 and 2014. The 2017 has a charm and a line of tannin that gives ageing ability. They are silky and refined with the backbone underneath.” Readers will note a negligible contribution of Cabernet Franc this year in all three 2017s since Frédéric was never its biggest fan and the vines are being removed. It is a good, solid Latour as you would expect, not unlike Mouton-Rothschild in coming across as structured and backward. Its élevage will put on a bit more fatness though stylistically it reminds me of the excellent 2012 Latour with just a little more length.
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