2005 Barbaresco
Italy
Treiso, San Rocco Seno D'elvio
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo
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2016 - 2025
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It is fascinating to taste Pio Cesare's 2004s and 2005s a decade or so after they were made. Back then, the wines were much more French oak-influenced than they are today, something that is plainly evident in this tasting. Pio makes two Barbarescos; a straight bottling blended from a variety of sites, and the Bricco, from an estate-owned parcel in Treiso.
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Pio Boffa told me that sales of his firm's Barolos in the U.S. were higher in 2009 than in the previous year, making him just about the only proprietor on my trip to report market growth for these pricey wines in America. Boffa describes 2005 as "a classic, less warm year for Barolo and Barbaresco-very traditional nebbiolo." In comparison, 2006 produced bigger, riper and more concentrated wines, "but in a similar style to 2005." Both of these vintages can be approached in the near future, he said, in contrast to 2004 and 2007, which are "monsters." Incidentally, Boffa loves both '07 and '06 for barbera, describing the '07s as creamy, full and feminine and the '06s as more interesting and minerally, but he believes these two vintages yielded dolcettos that are simply too rich.
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2013 - 2020
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Proprietor Pio Boffa clearly has a huge passion for wine. Then again, he owns some of the finest vineyards in the region. My recent tasting with Boffa included a number of older Barolos, all of which had developed very nicely.
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