2011 Laboro Disobedient

Wine Details
Place of Origin

Italy

Monforte D'alba

Piedmont

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Nebbiolo

Reviews & Tasting Notes

00

Drinking Window

2016 - 2031

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Brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino seem to finally be getting some recognition for their wines. The tiny cellar is nestled into a home within Monforte's Medieval old city center. Here, among the various tanks, barrels and casks, readers will find some of the most unique and original wines being made in Piedmont today. Alessandro Fantino worked alongside Bartolo Mascarello for more than twenty years. From the beginning, the wines here have been full of potential. But the Fantinos also had to do some soul-searching to arrive at a house style that is more defined than it has ever been. The Barolos are made in what might be called a contemporary traditional style in which the wines are classically rendered but also offer a good bit of near and medium-term appeal. At their best, the Fantino Barolos are compelling.

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Drinking Window

2017 - 2031

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What a thrill it is to taste these wines from brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino. The Fantinos work out of a tiny cellar in Monforte's old, historic center. Alessandro Fantino spent twenty years working alongside Bartolo Mascarello, where he helped make the wines and managed the vineyards. In 1998, as Maria Teresa Mascarello was becoming increasingly involved in the family business, Alessandro Fantino returned to his own estate. I have been visiting Fantino for over a decade. In that time, the wines have been all over the place stylistically, but the best wines have always been exceptional, as notes in the Vinous database show. In the early years, Alessandro Fantino made two Barolos; one in the prevailing style of the day, with considerable French oak-influence and using barrels purchase from his brother in law, Domenico Clerico, and a second, more traditional Barolo that was bottled exclusively for Fantino's then-US importer, Robert Chadderdon. The 'Chadderdon Cuvée' was often fabulous. Fantino is now back to making all of his wines along traditional lines, which is so clearly where his heart lies. In addition to these wines, Fantino also makes a striking Barbera and a Langhe Nebbiolo (both from Dardi) that will be covered in a forthcoming article on everyday Piedmont wines, along with a faux-Barolo called Disobedient that is essentially a cask of Barolo Fantino declassified in protest to having had his 2005 Riserva rejected by local authorities for bureaucratic reasons. I am often asked who the up and coming producers are in Barolo. Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino are among them.