1997 Pietre Rosse Paso Robles
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Under the influence of Tony Soter and, subsequently, Mia Klein, the Dalla Valle wines have gotten less and less acidification since the early '90s. "The huge phenolic material provided by the fruit here does not really require the pHs to be low," explains Klein. "The tannins are anti-oxidative, and there are plenty of tannins. The addition of acidity tends to make the tannins come across as meaner, more rustic." The last two harvests have been extremely late by the standards of this warm hillside site: following a September 2 start in '97, the harvests began on September 26 and October 7, respectively, in '98 and '99. "We can't be forced into picking with green seeds because we don't want to cheat on the length of maceration," noted Klein.
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The red soils of this hillside vineyard on the east side of the valley above Oakville yield some of the finest cabernet franc of California, as well as the only established California collectible based on a majority of franc. The Maya bottling gets a bit more maceration and a slightly higher percentage of new oak than the Napa Valley release. One to three weeks of further maceration follows the fermentation-for flavor and texture, according to owner Naoko Dalla Valle. Tony Soter and Mia Klein vinified the '96 and '97 (Klein will continue here as consulting winemaker following Soter retirement from his various consultancies); one of the key objectives in vinification in recent years, in the words of owner Naoko Dalla Valle, has been "to get the tannins to move further back in the mouth." I will publish the results of a Maya vertical tasting in an upcoming issue.
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