2008 Barolo Bricco delle Viole

The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.

I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.

For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.

Aldo and Milena Vajra are among the quietest and most introspective of Piedmont's top echelon growers. It is the wines that do the talking here, and they do that ever so eloquently. The estate's continued focus on excellence throughout their entire range comes through in spades in these new releases. One of the most interesting wines I tasted during my most recent visit might never be released, but it speaks to the high level of quality that is synonymous with the Vajra name. Some years ago, the Vajras purchased a plot in the Ravera vineyard planted with Nebbiolo. The vineyards are now about 15 years old, but the Vajras have never released a Barolo from this site because they don't think the wine is important enough for their label. I tasted the 2008 from tank and can only say most producers would kill to have a wine of this level in their cellar. But at Vajra, it remains a work in progress. I hope the Vajras will decide to bottle this Barolo one day, as it seems a crime to deprive the world of this terrific Barolo. For those who are wondering, the Ravera is closer to the Barolo Bricco delle Viole than the Barolo Albe stylistically.