2012 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo

A trip to Abruzzo is worth it to visit with Valentini alone, as the wines and information about this storied estate have become more and more difficult to obtain over the past decade. Grabriele Valentini, who has been working under his father Francesco for the past 10 years, is prepared to carry the traditional torch for the foreseeable future. So, what has changed at Valentini? To quote Francesco Valentini, “Nothing has changed in 300 years.” Which, through further conversation, I realized was a broad-stroke statement that is almost true, yet the reality is, in the face of global warming and politics, an even more enlightening scenario. Frankly, I don’t remember the last time that I visited a producer at this level that is so firmly rooted in tradition, yet who has a perfect understanding of the entire region, from small to large producers, and is looking with such an open mind toward the future. The size and scope of the Montepulciano DOC was a big topic of conversation, being a category where wines can be bottled outside of the region, or even the country, and still bear the DOC. The bulk producers and large tracts of vineyards that go into your $10 supermarket wine creates a poor outlook for the entire region yet can be labeled with the same name as the likes of Valentini, Emidio Pepe, Tiberio and Torre Dei Beati… just to name a few.

The other big topic was global warming, and this is where the shortage of Valentini wine starts to make sense. As farmers of wheat, olive, produce and grapes, this family works 250 hectares, 70 hectares of vineyards, 100% naturally, without any desire to apply any labels such as organic or biodynamic. However, such practices have their drawbacks, such as loss of crops due to health issues of the vineyards or stuck fermentations. However, Valentini takes it to an entirely different level; they are not willing to bottle a wine if it is not “correct” and does not follow what they believe to be the traditional representation of the variety and their house style. So, if a Montepulciano comes across as overripe or its color is more purple than red, they won’t produce the wine. It’s because of this, in the last 10 years, that they have only bottled the Montepulciano in 2012, 2013 and 2015. As for Cerasuolo, nothing was bottled in 2020 or 2021. Luckily, their Trebbiano hasn’t been so severely affected, but even Francesco Valentini will tell you that it’s not the Trebbiano of 40 years ago. In my opinion, that’s okay; having tasted the 2018, I can assure you that collectors should not hesitate to seek it out, drink or place in the cellar. As for the Montepulciano? Let’s just say that I’ll be fighting to find some of those rare bottles myself.

I left Valentini with my hope 100% renewed. Feeling that they not only earned the status that they hold in this region, but also that there is no fear for the future. As long as producers like this continue to set the bar high, do the right thing and be forthcoming with their opinions, we will all reap the rewards.