1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain
United States
Howell Mountain
Napa
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon
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2022 - 2037
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From the outset, Randy Dunn’s flagship Cabernet has been one of Napa Valley’s slowest agers and most consistently outstanding wines. This retrospective going back to the inaugural 1979 vintage showed the Howell Mountain Cabernet to be a wine of great intensity and staying power but also of restraint and class.
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2016 - 2031
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Randy Dunn is one of Napa Valley's most iconic producers. Over the years and decades Dunn has remained faithful to what he views a classic style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Although in many ways quite introverted and reclusive, Dunn hasn't been shy in his critiquing wines that he feels are overdone, which hasn't exactly won him a ton of friends in some circles. The great irony is that as many of today's generation of young winemakers seek to rediscover the roots of Napa Valley, Dunn's wines, along with those of a handful of producers – including Forman, Togni, Inglenook and Diamond Creek among others – have never been more popular.
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In the very late growing seasons of '99 and '98, Randy Dunn dropped a good third of his crop in order to ripen the rest. "If you didn't drop crop in '99 and '98 you didn't get it ripe," he told me. "We didn't have the normal inversion layer in the early fall of either year, so it got cooler than usual at night and we often had fog in the mornings, like it normally is down below. So in both years we ended up picking into November. "Still, he maintains, vintage variation is far less pronounced on Howell Mountain than on the valley floor. "On the hillsides up here, it's much harder to tell the vintages apart," says Dunn. "It was much easier when I was at Caymus—or maybe I was smarter then." Dunn told me that 1999 appears to have produced thicker, sweeter wines than '98, with impressively snappy fresh berry flavors. While "basically the strongest lots" go into the Howell Mountain bottling, it's difficult to choose between the two cuvees as both are essentially from Howell Mountain fruit. Only 10% of Dunn's '98 fruit is from his valley floor source just south of Caymus.
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