2005 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru
France
Chassagne Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2023 - 2040
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Like a number of his neighbors in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pillot did not begin harvesting chardonnay in 2006 until September 20, as he believed that even three days earlier the grapes were not yet sufficiently ripe. He describes '06 as "a mysterious year," with the wines possessing low pHs, sound acidity and high sugars. "I've never seen quite this combination of firm spinal column and full ripeness," he summarized. Pillot uses a maximum of one-third new oak for his premier crus, and 50% for his Chevalier-Montrachet. Note that the domain wines here are labeled Jean Pillot et Fils. Pillot's style has evolved in recent years, with his choice of picking dates, his approach to elevage, and the timing and quantity of sulfur additions now aimed at producing vins de garde. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY) Also recommended: Saint-Romain La Perriere (86).
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Pillot chilled his cave for the alcoholic fermentations, keeping the temperature of the wines from exceeding 73oF.The result was sugar fermentations that dragged on until early May, the latest ever in this cellar.Pillot planned to keep the 2005s in tank from before the 2006 harvest until the end of the year to allow the SO2 to combine with the wines "in a stable way."Pillot compares the 2005s to the 1992s, "but with a refreshing citrus quality on the end."The alcohol levels in the wines range from 12.9% to 13.6%, with a bit of chaptalization.Heat stress kept yields down on the hillsides, noted Pillot, and, with less movement of the sap, there was a deficit of nitrogen, contributing to the difficulty of fermenting a number of wines.All the wines had been sulfited in early June but not yet racked.Interestingly, Pillot is keeping more of the lees now but did not practice batonnage in 2005.He didn't need to, he said, because the wines remained turbid on their own.
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