2017 Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2027 - 2055
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Céline Fontaine, who has been working with her father Richard since 2007 and has recently taken over responsibility for winemaking, showed me a consistently superb set of 2017s from what she described as “a good dry summer with a good crop.” This early, very warm year (the family began harvesting on September 3), she told me, produced wines “with a similar profile to 2015, but with a bit less acidity.” Yields ranged as high as 50 hectoliters per hectare, and grape sugars were mostly around 13% to 13.2%, but a bit higher in Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets and, as is usually the case, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. (Fontaine told me that she normally chooses to chaptalize her wines lightly when the fruit comes in at 12.5%.) The 2017 vintage, she told me, brought very clean fruit and a lot of small golden berries. I tasted entirely from barrels made by Tonnellerie Minier, located in nearby Chagny, for which Richard Fontaine selects the wood.
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