2006 Saint-Pierre (Saint-Julien)
France
Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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Technical director Remi di Costanzo told me this estate did a second pass through the vines in late August of '07 to remove the pink grapes, then picked slowly over a three-week period. Still, owing to the drawn-out flowering, he said, there remained a degree of irregularity in the ripeness. Incidentally, Costanzo told me he likes his merlot in 2007 (it comprises a normal 27% of the blend), and expressed the opinion that some of his colleagues in the Medoc waited too long to harvest their merlot vines.
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"Two thousand six was not an easy year," said technical director Remi di Costanzo. "It was necessary to work hard in the vines and to wait for ripeness, especially for the cabernet sauvignon." Costanzo told me that he removed all the leaves on the east side of the vines, and "de-compacted" the clusters during late summer "so that nothing touched." He also used an anti-botrytis spray late in the season, which he believes allowed the estate to harvest cabernet sauvignon until October 6. Still, the selection was particularly severe, and less press wine than usual went into the final blend. Costanzo noted that the decision of whether to do a saignee or to use the Entropie method to concentrate the must is based on the yield and potential alcohol in a given parcel. He would prefer to rely on saignee, but he's willing to use Entropie when the alcohol level would be too low without it. I find more texture and purity in this chateau's wine today than I did just five years ago.
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