France
Monthélie
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2022 - 2028
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As great as the wines are, I am once again reminded that wines are made special by context, in other words the circumstances, places and people that surround them. This was a truly unforgettable night of food, wine, friendship and camaraderie.
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2019 - 2045
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Dominique Lafon described 2011 as a year of more heterogenous quality than 2010, although he noted that the harvest did not bring "an enormous crop." As to 2010, Lafon says that the wines have "exploded in tank and gained in refinement. They're built like the 2008s, which are bigger and weightier but not as elegant. The 2010s are better balanced: their weight and acidity are integrated better." Some of the 2010s had been bottled just days before my visit, but their high quality was plain to see. (Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; also a Daniel Johnnes Selection, www.danieljohnneswines.com; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com)
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2016 - 2016
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Comtes Lafon's 2010 whites are just as impressive from bottle as they were in barrel. Dominique Lafon told me the wines changed quite a bit and found their precision during fining. The 2010s at Comtes Lafon are tight and powerful, with plenty of underlying fruit and depth. The 2010s were bottled between March and early June 2012.
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Dominique Lafon counts 2009 among his favorite white wine vintages, and he considers these wines to be better than the reds from the same year. In contract, in 2010 he prefers the reds to the whites. Lafon believes the short crop in 2010 allowed the wines to retain more elegance than the 2008s. In fact, he also told me that he prefers his 2007 whites to his 2008s "for purity." Like a number of his colleagues, Lafon has been making more use of fining in recent years. "Casein takes out some of the oxidized phenolics," he told me, admitting that his wines from the period in which he did less fining (1996 through 2002) may not be aging as well. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; also a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)
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2016 - 2016
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Dominique Lafon's 2009s are just as stunning from bottle as they were when I tasted them in cask earlier this year. Lafon is one of the most thoughtful growers in Burgundy. Along with a group of his colleagues, Lafon is among the producers who has basically re-examined every aspect of the way he makes wine in response to the problem of premature oxidation. Today's wines spend more time on their lees, but that is just one of many changes that have taken place here over the least few years. Except as noted, I tasted the 2009s from bottle. The 2009 Charmes, Perrières and Montrachet were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted all of the 2010s from barrel. The Meursault, Clos de la Barre and Goutte d'Or weren't showing well, while the Meursault premier crus and the Montrachet were all sublime.
2010 Montrachet Grand Cru | Vinous - Explore All Things Wine