2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
France
Corton Charlemagne
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2025 - 2070
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The hotel boasts two restaurants, the two Michelin-starred La Pyramide and a bistro, L’Espace PH3. On the first night, attendees convened at the bistro in order to mine its eye-boggling wine lists, and the following day, the second part of the Chambertin tasting was accompanied by a specially prepared menu in the flagship restaurant.
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2022 - 2060
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2028 - 2050
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There was no chance to try the 2011s here at the end of May, as the wines were just starting their malolactic fermentations and were impossible to taste.But I saw the spectacular 2010s with Raphael Coche, who has made the family's reds since 2003 and has now taken over the whites, with father Jean-Francois spending most of his time in the vines.Raphael noted that the creamy millerande grapes in 2010 buffered the vintage's strong acidity, and that's why the wines are not too austere in the early going.He must have a high threshold for pain because I found at least a couple of these wines to be extremely unforgiving in their youth, even if their extraordinary quality and potential longevity are obvious."They don't quite have the thickness of 1990 but they have incredible tightly coiled energy," said Coche.These wines will be worth a special search and should age at a snail's pace.
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2020 - 2020
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Jean-François Coche's 2010s have turned out just as I hoped they would, which is to say the wines are breathtaking. On average, yields were down 40%, so these already highly coveted, rare wines are going to be even more impossible to find than usual. Coche is adamant that opening his top 2010s before age ten is a total waste, something he repeated a few times during my visit. Accordingly, Coche doesn't plan on releasing the Corton-Charlemagne for another few years. Unfortunately I wasn't able to taste all of the 2010s from bottle, but this sample is a good representation of the vintage. Readers will find complete notes on the 2010s from barrel in our database at www.erobertparker.com.
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The high percentage of coulure in 2010 resulted in small, concentrated grapes with great vivacity but without surmaturite, said Raphael Coche-Dury. "When we picked, they were very ripe but just short of overripening." Acidity levels, both malic and tartaric, were very high, he noted, adding that the 2010s should be great agers. In contrast, the 2009 "are not for enormous aging, but they are very rich and have sound acidity." (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
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2020 - 2020
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Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at his family's illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn't a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can't wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle.
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