1999 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
France
Corton Charlemagne
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2016 - 2024
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
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Jean-Francois Coche describes the young 2000s as firm wines with very good acidity; there was a bit of botrytis in his aligote, which, incidentally, offers great fat and power for this variety, as well as piquant balancing acidity, but virtually none in the estate chardonnay. Coche's '99s have turned out splendidly; he describes '99 as "a very complete vintage featuring great richness and balance, better than '96 or '95." The Corton-Charlemagne is a tour de force
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A number of Coche '98s appear to have lost some of their clarity and to have developed a hard edge during the second half of their levage with the result that the bottled wines do not show the compelling aromatics and layered textures that fans of this superb domain crave. No doubt this was due in part to Coche's use of the lees, which were not entirely healthy in '98, especially in vineyards hard-hit by frost and oidium. For his own part, Coche is clearly not enamored of these wines; he made a point of showing me the '98s quickly before turning to his '99s, which promise to make classic Coche bottles. Even the bourgogne blanc should be a standout in '99.
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