2008 Dolcetto d'Alba
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Altare's 2006 crop was cut back sharply by late-August hail and severe selection at harvest time. In fact, there's no Brunate '06, and Altare declassified his Arborina fruit into his classico. Of particular interest here is Altare's new Cerretta Barolo, from a rented vineyard in Serralunga that was replanted eight years ago. I thought the 2005 version, the first vintage for this bottling, was impressive for its combination of power and perfume, but Altare assured me that the 2006 will be even better. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)
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I was completely blown away by Elio Altare's 2007s. The wines show incredible purity of fruit, rich, textured personalities, soft tannins and sublime overall balance. This is one of the very finest young vintages I have tasted here. Interestingly the wines were much more open when I tasted them in New York in September 2009 than they were a few weeks later at the winery. I also was impressed with the white 2008 Cinqueterre, a wine Altare is making from impossibly steep vineyards in Liguria. The 2008 showed elements of Riesling-like minerality and tons of balance.
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