2010 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2020 - 2040
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The top 2010 Red Burgundies are now virtually impossible to find, so it was a real treat to taste these nine gorgeous, reference-point wines together. The goal of this seminar, which I curated at Pebble Beach Food & Wine, was to highlight a number of Burgundy’s finest terroirs ands most representative producers. I was joined on the panel by Master Sommeliers Larry Stone and Alan Murray, and winemaker Rajat Parr. All of the wines showed exceptionally well in what turned out to be a fabulous morning filled with great Burgundy and equally stimulating conversation. For more background on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. As Burgundy fans know, the 2010 growing season did not get off to a great start. A devastating winter frost killed a number of vines, especially in the low, flat-lying sectors close to the Route Nationale. Poor weather during flowering caused significant issues with coulure and millerandage. Conditions improved markedly during the last few weeks of the season, always the most critical time of the year. The 2010s combine excellent maturity levels from naturally occurring low yields with lively acidity that is the result of a long, cool growing season. Most importantly of all, the wines are highly site-specific. At their best, the 2010s are stunning wines that capture the essence of what makes Burgundy so thrilling. For more on 2010, readers might enjoy taking a look back at my initial thoughts on the vintage and wines.
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2020 - 2030
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The 2010s from Marquis d'Angerville are stellar. They are the product of a year that saw yields lowered by 40-50% on average. It was quite a shock to see the domain's cellars with so few barrels in them. As always, the wines were made with fully de-stemmed fruit. I will report on the 2009s in my April article.
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I tasted in a different cellar here than I usually do, as Guillaume d'Angerville decided not to move the 2010s that had not yet finished their malolactic fermentations to make room for the 2011s. By the time I arrived, most of the malos had finished but just a couple wines had been racked. D'Angerville emphasized that he never punches down the cap during the vinification. "I don't like to be stubborn, but if there's one thing I'll never change, this is it," he said. "It's ingrained from my father and my grandfather." The top 2010s here look to be splendid.
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