2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin

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According to Marc Perrin, "2011 was especially hard on the grenache in Chateauneuf and definitely favored the late-ripening varieties, especially mourvedre."The uneven ripening that occurred caused the grapes to "look fine on the outside but not so fine inside" and resulted in a brutal (his word was "ridiculous") selection process at harvest.There was even an additional sorting of the grapes after de-stemming, he told me, meaning that in terms of labor and fruit sacrifice this was one of their most demanding and costly ever.Final production was off by about 50%, "which is far into the range of economically unfeasible," he added.Luckily for the Perrins almost 40% of Beaucastel's total plantings are mourvedre, which fared far better than the grenache, "and gave us a lot more breathing room than most people here."

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According to Marc Perrin, "the not-so secret benefit of Beaucastel's location in Chateauneuf is that the vineyard sits in the most northern sector of the appellation. This means that the north winds sweep down through the mountains and hit here first, which keeps the vineyards cool and stretches out the growing season." He added that in terms of temperature Beaucastel "is a lot like a vineyard much further north," so there is always good acidity to the grapes, even in a hot year. Perrin noted that in a year like 2010 that quality is even more pronounced, "which means that the wines will be very long-lived." As much as he loves the 2007 Hommage a Jacques Perrin, and the 2009 as well, he believes the 2010 is at another level and "should be, maybe, the longest-lived wine made here, maybe ever." He compares the 2010 wines "to 1978 and maybe even 1962 for their intensity without overripeness or heaviness." Those older vintages are most peoples' reference points for greatness in Chateauneuf, by the way. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

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