1999 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin

Francois Perrin describes the estate's 2000 reds as round and juicy, a bit like '89. "In contrast, the '99s are solid but not easy wines, best suited for purists; '99 is Wagner while '00 is Mozart." As at numerous other Rhone Valley addresses, especially in the North, 2000 has produced exceptionally strong white wines here. The estate did very little stirring of the lees, and blocked the malolactic fermentations to protect the freshness of the whites. Beaucastel can now do the pigeage for its syrah and mourvedre in wood cuves following the completion of its new cuverie With its expanded capacity, the new facility could allow Beaucastel to vinify its entire crop in five days. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"The '99s give a strong impression of acidity even if their pHs are similar to those of '98," said Francois Perrin, echoing a sentiment I heard up and down the Rhone Valley in November and experienced for myself in the wines. "The '99s are still extremely youthful, like completely fresh fruit. Nineteen ninety-eight, in comparison, featured a more Californian climate, with hot days but cool nights." Perrin, who has proven to be a discerning and forthcoming judge of the relative merits of vintages, says that the estate Roussanne Vieilles Vignes in '99 is the best since '91. "The '98 whites are a bit technological," he told me, "while the '99s, which fermented much longer, are more complex." Beaucastel has made an extraordinary pair of special Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottlings in '99 and '98. Like the stunningly good '89 and '90, the current pair represents two completely different blends: the '99, like the '90, features 60% mourvedre and 20% grenache, while the '98, like the '89, is 60% grenache and 20% mourvedre. These rare and expensive bottles are among the Rhone Valley's most remarkable wines. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)