NV Extra-Brut Cumières (2016)
$90 (2011)
France
Cumières
Champagne
Sparkling White
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (2011 vintage)
00
2021 - 2031
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Vincent Laval was in high spirits when I stopped by this past March. The cellar was eerily empty, as Laval chose to bottle his 2018s earlier than normal. The Champagnes I tasted were all compelling and also terrific examples of a house style that emphasizes sustainable farming, low yields and minimal intervention in the cellar. Rich, vinous and full of energy, the Laval Champagnes are some of the most original, deeply personal wines readers will come across.
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2016 - 2022
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Vincent Laval is one of Champagne's top artisan growers. Biodynamic farming, tiny yields and high levels of natural ripeness (by Champagne standards) are among the signatures. The wines in this cellar, all rendered in barrel, boast extraordinary purity and a level of transparency that makes them compelling. The Laval Champagnes are almost always bottled with no dosage, so the style is dry, brisk and tense. I recommend giving these Champagnes a good bit of air, which will only help bring out the flavors even more. In my opinion, the Brut Nature Rosé Cumières Premier Cru is the best wine in the cellar most years. Readers should note that the next Les Hautes-Chèvres, the 2012, is scheduled for release in 2017.
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2013 - 2018
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Located off a small side street in Cumières, Georges Laval is one of the hidden jewels of Champagne. Proprietor Vincent Laval crafts Champagnes of incredible personality. Biodynamic farming has been the rule since 1971. In the cellar, things are equally stripped down. All of the Champagnes are fermented and aged in barrel, and bottled naturally, with no fining, filtration or cold stabilization. These three Champagnes are all Brut Nature, which means they were bottled with no dosage. Sadly, production is tiny, but readers who can find these wines should not hesitate, as they are often simply brilliant, not to mention full of personality.
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