1997 Salon (Edition 2019)

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Salon remains of Champagne’s most mystical and elusive wines. Since 1905, the house has declared just thirty-nine vintages. This vertical tasting of Salon and sister property Delamotte provided a great opportunity to revisit a number of reference point vintages and also taste the latest releases.

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I was thrilled to moderate this tasting of Salon and Delamotte at Pebble Beach Food & Wine. At their best, these are some of the most thrilling Champagnes readers will come across. Salon President Didier Depond, who also manages Delamotte’s Salon’s sister estate, joined me on the panel, along with Shayn Bjornhom MS, Emily Wines MS and Winemaker Rajat Parr. Talk about a dream panel. My job was to basically make sure we started and ended on time. In all honesty, though, it was the wines that stole the show, and with good reason. For more perspective on Salon, readers might enjoy my video interview with Didier Depond the day before this tasting. Salon is the most elusive of Champagne’s grand marques. Only made in what the house deems the very best years, Salon has been bottled just 37 times since its first vintage, 1905. In case you are wondering, no, I haven’t tasted the 1905. Yet. Even when it is released, production is tiny. Consider that there are just 60,000 bottles (5,000 cases) of the 2002 for the entire world, a virtually insignificant amount by Champagne standards, where other tête de cuvées range from much larger in the case of Taittinger’s Comtes to Champagne (also a small production Champagne) to about 100 times greater in the case of Dom Pérignon. Naturally, older vintages of Salon are very hard to find, hence the huge appeal of this packed tasting that headlined Pebble Beach Food & Wine this year. Salon is located in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. The heart of Salon emerges from a small vineyard that sits right behind the house. Salon is done entirely in steel, with no malolactic fermentation, one of the reasons the wine needs extended time in bottle prior to release, and in most cases, several on cork before it stars drinking well. In vintages in which Salon is not made, the fruit goes into Delamotte, Salon’s sister estate and neighbor. The Delamotte is a bit less severe, as malolactic fermentation is employed to give the wine softer contours and more immediate breadth. With the exception of the 1988, all the wines were brilliant. Of course, Champagne loves the big bottle, so it is not too much of a surprise that the wines from magnum were superb.

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2013 - 2027

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This wine was tasted as part of the Rare Wine Dinner at La Paulee in San Francisco, 2010.

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Salon is one of Champagne's icons, and with good reason, as it is one of the most ageworthy, complex wines made in the region. At its best, Salon is capable of aging gracefully for decades, in fact, some vintages need a good 20 years before they begin to drink well! Salon is 100% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Mesnil. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation, which adds to the already focused, intensely mineral-driven character that the Mesnil soil gives on its own. Salon is a wine for the patient, but its pedigree always comes through with time.

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