1997 Extra-Brut R.D.

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2013 - 2017

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This is an exceptional set of new wines from Bollinger, one of Champagne's historic houses. From top to bottom, there isn't anything Bollinger isn't doing well these days. I recently sat down with Chef de Caves Matthieu Kaufmann to taste through a range of the house's 2009s. Readers will find notes on that tasting on this site. One of the distinguishing features of the Bollinger style is the aging of reserve wines in magnum under cork (not crown seal), a painstaking labor of love. Bollinger also has some of the most informative labels among the region's larger houses. It would be great to see Krug, Moët & Chandon, Roederer, Veuve Cliquot and a number of the region's larger houses follow suit.

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2013 - 2018

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Under the direction of Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger produces one of the most consistent lineups in Champagne. This estate based in Aÿ is probably best known to the public through its long association with the James Bond films, which is quite possibly one of the most successful product placement campaigns of all time. Despite the show biz glamor that has inextricably become part of the Bollinger mystique, at their best these are serious wines with significant aging potential. The low-dosage R.D. (recently-disgorged) series can be tremendous, and the Vielles Vignes Françaises, made from pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir vines, is one of Champagne's most exotic bottlings. The estate favors neutral oak barrels for the aging of its top wines. One of the most unique aspects of this estate is that the reserve wines are aged in magnum, rather than in tank, which is the prevailing custom in the region. Bollinger's back labels are quite informative, but it would be nice to see disgorgement dates as well on the non-vintage wines.

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