2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2014 flowering took place between May 22 and June 5 under what winemaker Eric Rémy described as "good weather but too warm." The flowering was especially successful on vines planted along a north-south axis but less regular on the east-west vines, he added. Average production for the estate was 46 hectoliters per hectare, about the same as in 2011, while 2013 yielded just under 40. Potential alcohol levels for the grand crus in 2014 were in the 12.8% to 13.1% range, noted Rémy, and no wine was chaptalized more than half a degree. Rémy compares 2014 in quality to 2010 and 2008, noting that the post-malo '14s have acidity levels between 4.25 and 5.25 grams per liter.

Meanwhile, the 2013s here have turned out very well, even if the skins of the grapes were more fragile owing to what Rémy described as "tropical conditions" at harvest. "In 2014, it was much drier and we could take our time picking." Rémy is convinced that the 2013s will begin to tighten up this fall.

For the second straight year, winemaker Eric Remy told a tale of woe about heavy rainfall during the flowering--in this case, about two inches fell on June 19 and 20, just three days after the 2013 flowering started at Domaine Leflaive.(April and May had seen rain, chilly weather and even some flooding, and the season was already two or three weeks behind schedule.)The resulting coulure and millerandage cut potential crop levels and then the severe hailstorm of July 23 caused great damage from Meursault to Aloxe-Corton, though with very little impact farther south.August brought reasonably good summer conditions but the season was still late, and the domain starting harvesting on September 28, with the grapes "starting to turn, as in 2012 and 2006."But even after the necessary triage, Domaine Leflaive has produced an average of 40 hectoliters per hectare.Remy sulfited the must a bit more than usual due to the botrytis element but carried out his normal pressurage and used the same percentage of new oak as always.Although the Puligny-Montrachet Combettes fruit reached 13.6% natural alcohol, most of the estate's parcels were chaptalized around half a degree.Remy describes 2013 as "round on the attack, and less a vin de garde than 2012, 2011 and 2010, all of which were more cutting from the beginning."Long-time fans of Leflaive's wines may smell an opportunity for relatively early gratification here.On the other hand, the supernal 2012s will require patience.