1996 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

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2019 - 2034

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This wine was tasted informally at the Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, held in April 2015 at the Bouley Test Kitchen in New York City.

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2015 - 2025

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It’s a real treat to revisit three whites from Leflaive with a small group of tasters. Even though many of the best Burgundies have now become prohibitively expensive, at their purest essence these wines still represent the toil of farmers working on an artisan scale with tiny plots of land, each with their own unique attributes. The three whites in this tasting open a small window into the career of one of Burgundy’s most brilliant vignerons. Sadly, Leflaive passed away earlier this year, but these wines are a poignant reminder of the rich legacy she leaves behind.

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This wine was tasted as part of the Rare Wine Dinner at La Paulee in San Francisco, 2010.

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This wine was tasted during La Paulée in NYC, 2009.

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Leflaive winemaker Pierre Morey believes that the wild yeasts that ferment these wines actually produce a bit of sulfur, and thus the estate may be able to add less sulfur to its '97s than would ordinarily be required. On the other hand, these yeasts may also have impeded the malolactic bacteria in '96 and have been responsible for the stubbornly slow secondary fermentations. At the time of my visit, none of the Leflaive '96s had been bottled, and a few had not yet finished their malos! Though these wines were tricky to taste, I nevertheless came away with the impression that they would rank among the superstars of the vintage. Morey said he was continuing to stir the lees even of the wines currently in cuve despite the difficulty of such work. He stopped batonnage of the '97s within three months or so after the vintage.

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