2004 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

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2019 - 2031

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According to winemaker Pierre Morey, Domaine Leflaive did two separate ebourgeonnages in 2004 and carried out a third pass through the vines to reduce crop, yet still made the full permitted yields in 2004 (like most of their neighbors), even more than in 1999. "We couldn't imagine getting grapes that big," he told me. At the same time, the average level of malic acidity in 2004 was 4.22 grams per liter, compared to 1.28 in 2003-a vast difference. Tartaric acidity levels were virtually the same in both years. (The average pH of the post-fermentation '04s is 3.16, while it was a very high 3.57 for the 2003s.) Morey told me that he will keep the fine lees with the 2004s longer than usual to round them out, as he is worried that the relatively high acids will give the wines' finishes a dry edge. While only a minority of barrels had finished their malolactic fermentations, I was able to taste from those that had. Like a number of his colleagues, Morey advised serving the 2003s a bit colder than usual to mitigate their heaviness and alcohol-and with richer dishes than usual.

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