2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2023 - 2030
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2019 - 2029
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2015 - 2020
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It’s a real treat to revisit three whites from Leflaive with a small group of tasters. Even though many of the best Burgundies have now become prohibitively expensive, at their purest essence these wines still represent the toil of farmers working on an artisan scale with tiny plots of land, each with their own unique attributes. The three whites in this tasting open a small window into the career of one of Burgundy’s most brilliant vignerons. Sadly, Leflaive passed away earlier this year, but these wines are a poignant reminder of the rich legacy she leaves behind.
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According to winemaker Pierre Morey, the team at Domaine Leflaive started the 2002 harvest three days after the ban de vendange and then picked everything in one week flat. Morey stopped stirring the lees in December, but most of the malos did not finish until April, with the result that the wines in early June had a lot of carbonic gas. Leflaive's 2001s do not possess the purity of the estate's more classic 2000s, but they are nonetheless among the standouts of the vintage. The last 2001s had been bottled shortly before my visit, or a month or two later than usual. They were left longer on their finings so that they would fall bright. Morey, who told me last year that he found the finishes of some of the 2001s more salty than acid, believes the 2001s will age relatively rapidly. Much of the remaining acidity is lactic, which is less vivid than the tartaric acidity that characterizes the 2002s."
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There was so much malic acidity in the grapes in 2001 that we couldn't envision the post-malo wine," said winemaker Pierre Morey. Sugars were lower than those of 2000, as nothing much happened during the cool early September weather, but we still were able to avoid chaptalizing much of the crop," noted Morey. We needed to use sorting tables in the vines and in the winery, to eliminate rotten and underripe grapes, as well as those burned by the sun at the beginning of August. The rot came earlier in 2001 than in 2000; in 2000 it was mostly noble rot, which can give the wines more personality, but in 2001 it was especially important to eliminate the rotten grapes because they could have given a dry taste to the wines." Morey noted that Domaine Leflaive did not need to take advantage of the P.L.C. (the plafond limite de classement or the amount by which Burgundy growers are allowed to exceed the rendement de base or base yield), as the drawn-out flowering and millerandage as well as two bursts of hail - which caused significant crop loss in Clavoillons - resulted in yields 10% to 12% lower than those of 2000. This was a drier-style year favoring wines with a tendency to be fat, like Puligny Combettes and Batard-Montrachet," added Morey.
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