1996 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
France
Clos De La Roche
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2021 - 2032
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2020 - 2036
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Domaine Lignier’s Clos de la Roche is one of Burgundy’s most renowned wines. This remarkable vertical of twenty vintages went back to 1978 and encompassed three distinct eras of the domaine’s distinguished history.
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The Ligniers have capitalized on the great ripeness of the '97 vintage, making wines with extravagant, sometimes gamey richness and great fat in the mouth. "They were Cote Rotie like before malo; now they're more pinot," is the way Romain Lignier describes the evolution of these wines during their first year in barrel. (Some of these wines reminded me of ripe year right bank Bordeaux in their density and structure.) The Phs, Lignier adds, are in the high average range; there wasn't much malic acid in the grapes and thus little acidity was lost during the secondary fermentation. The village wines had not been racked at the time of my November visit and were to have been bottled in January and February, whereas the crus were racked last summer and will be bottled in April and May. The Lignier '96s, meanwhile, are superb, and destined for long life. Lignier describes this vintage as fruitier and higher in acid than 1990 but similar in style. 1997, he added, is more like 1991.
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Romain Lignier describes 1996 as a higher-acid version of 1990. "It a vintage that leads with its fruit, and its tannins are round." In comparison, the '95s are getting tougher and closing up. "Everyone said 1995 would be less tough than '93," he points out. "But now I'm not so sure." These two vintages had millerandage and resulting low yields in common, he adds, while 1996 produced higher crop levels and, in some cellars, a lot of dilute wines. 1995, notes Lignier, features darker cassis aromas and flavors, while '96 is more redcurrant and framboise The Ligniers recently purchased a bit more Clos de la Roche and now own a full hectare.
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