2021 Panoplie

In a mix of typical Paso Robles wines, Tablas Creek's portfolio stands out for balance, poise and purity. The contiguous regenerative vineyards of Tables Creek are located in the extreme western reaches of Paso Robles within the Adelaida District. This year, I tasted vintages spanning from 2021 through 2023, which showed how well this estate, led by winemaker Neil Collins in close conjunction with proprietor Jason Haas, has dialed in its vineyard and wine-making practices. The 2021s are magnificent. Having tasted some samples from cask last year, it's a real pleasure to witness their slow maturation. I eagerly anticipate revisiting the top wines in five to ten years. Hass commented, “If I could design an ideal growing season, 2021 would be it.” As for 2022, a hot, drought year plagued by a heat wave during harvest, I was amazed by the level of energy and complexity captured throughout the lineup. Something seldom mentioned about 2022 was a late spring frost that hit the region on May 11th. As a result, the white wine production at Tablas Creek was down by 40%. The team here did a fantastic job of maintaining a classic style despite the season's conditions. The Esprit de Tablas Blanc is fantastic and falls slightly short when tasted next to the 2023. Roussanne made up only 33% of the blend, and Grenache Blanc increased to 32%. Two thousand twenty-three is a vintage to watch closely. It was the coolest year since 2011, with almost 50 inches of rain, which broke all records for precipitation. The result was a long and balanced season that allowed for a slow and well-timed harvest across all varieties. From what I’ve tasted of the early releases, it’s a vintage to get excited about. Lastly, the Lignée de Tablas lineup takes fruit from outside the estate vineyards that are planted to Tablas Creek clones.

The secret to Paso Robles is often a balance of power and acidity to find harmony. Tables Creek relies, instead, on their vast portfolio of focused, graceful and terroir-driven wines. The winery, established in 1989, is located in the extreme western reaches of Paso Robles, within the Adelaida district. The vineyards, all contiguous, are carefully divided into blocks that allow the team, led by winemaker Neil Collins in close conjunction with proprietor Jason Haas, to give individual care as needed. In recent years, Tables Creek has switched from organic and partial biodynamic practices to full-on regenerative. The regenerative system creates an environment that sustainably nurtures itself from the inside out. This includes a focus on soil health, biodiversity, no tilling, active flocks of sheep, sustainable energy and paying all workers a living wage to better everything within and attached to the farm. Regenerative is a term that readers will be hearing a lot more about in the coming years. Tablas spearheaded the process, being the first winery to receive an official certification from the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA). As for the wines, both the reds and whites are superb. Most of what I tasted was from the 2021 vintage, which is very exciting. It’s essential to keep in mind that Tablas Creek can often be misjudged by the average consumer looking for a Paso Robles experience. The new releases are almost always understated yet complex and refined. In most cases, these don’t just require further aging but demand it. With that said, patient collectors will reap the rewards.