2021 Léoville Barton
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2028 - 2051
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“It was not a good vintage for tourists, but it was enough to ripen the grapes,” Lilian Barton-Sartorius told me when I called in at Mauvesin-Baron, out in Moulis-en-Médoc. “I think it is a vintage where buyers should shop carefully. Gelée blanche is when there is no wind, and the cold air sits at the bottom and gelée noir is when there are cold winds, and you bring even more cold air to the vineyards. The first night was gélee noir and hit the top of the hills and the second night gelée blanche. We have candles here which is fine when temperatures are -2°C but not efficient if it is -5°C. We had no frost in Saint-Julien, and the wines exhibited high acidity levels, mostly malic so the total acidity decreased to a fairly normal number. Our challenge was that the Merlot could be diluted because of the showers, but the grape size was not too large. and their skin maturity was fine. The 20mm of rain forecast just before harvest never materialised, though we took the decision to pick before as we did not feel it would disadvantage us much as it takes three days for any water to be sucked up by the vines. The 2021s are the first vintages made in the new winery equipped with smaller vats (80-200hL whereas they were uniformly 200hL) and in small batches using our three, 5-hectoliter vertical presses that allow us to separate the skins and press the heart of the batch and gain precision. There is around 12.5% vin de presse in the final blend.”
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